Where were we? Oh yes, in the lovely city of Split.
So after an evening in Split in a lovely hotel, we caught the ferry – tickets are reasonable, but be sure to check the times as they seemed sporadic to me. You can buy tickets directly at the port, but be sure to double check which slip your ferry will be departing from – it’s a large port and we missed our first ferry because we miscalculated the time to walk to our ferryboat.
From Split, it’s an hour journey by ferry to the harbor town of Supetar on the island of Brac. There are also catmarans available in Milna, but they run an even more sporadic schedule, so we simply went on the ferry.
A 20 minute taxi ride later, we arrived in Milna and, more importantly, at our harborside apartment.
Milna, Split-Dalmatia, Croatia
This time (our first vacation after arriving in Russia) was prior to my obsessive usage of booking.com. This time we went with homeaway.com, which I remembered from my time in the real estate game. Generally, homeaway.com can be a very good site for finding an affordable and great apartment anywhere.
This time, it was not so. The entire experience was simply profoundly lacking – except for the view (you cannot argue with the above). That being said, views do not equate comfort. Where to begin?
- Funky smells! Yes, that’s right, funky smells. Day two we were subjected to the overpowering smell of sewage (consider outside the apartment was around 100 degrees celsius). It was so overpowering we went to management went it was clearly not a passing phase – they took care of it….eventually.
- Comfort. One doesn’t ask for much. In the case of La Palma, perhaps we should have asked for more. Including but not limited to
- Internet that works inside the apartment.
- A couch or relaxed seating that comfortably seat two people.
- Air conditioning capable of cooling an entire apartment.
- Some sort of welcome goody – it could be chocolate or it could be beer.
Would I book again? No. I actually find the fact that this property is no longer on homeaway somewhat comforting. It was cheap, but even for the reasonable rate, I’d rather be pleasantly comfortable (not even luxuriously comfortable) for a week at a higher rate, than stay here for two.
From Brac’s tourist info, you can see there’s not much to Milna. While quaint, charming and very beautiful – it’s one of those places that one’s stay/mobility is greatly enhance if you own a boat (or a yacht). Milna is exceedingly walkable – but public transport is hit/miss to other towns. We took the bus to Supetar one day (which was cheap) but it only ran three times a day. You can take the catamaran from Milna – it only runs at noon on Wednesdays and returns around 6. Milna has a handful of restaurants and bars (some better than others), a few shops for the passing yacht sailors and, perhaps most importantly, a lovely vinery.
Pavic Vinoteka – hard to find, but what a memory. A family run winery for 300 years, this was a tiny slice of heaven. I will admit that we had not idea it was there- it’s a random, little doorway on the side of marina, and the only clue was a small cart with local treats – candied nuts, olive oil and sherry. We meandered into wine cellar and sampled their wares, coming away with one sherry, a dessert wine, and a lovely white. The proprietor was lovely, incredibly helpful and it was easily my favorite part of Milna.
Croatian food – to put it simply, it was an experience. Picture a fusion of Austrian, Italian and Greek cuisine. Pasta, pizza, and schnitzel. That gets part of it, but still not quite. As we said earlier, Milna had a handful of restaurants which we came to know very well (as it seemed we could never really leave Milna). We subsisted on risotto, seafood platters, basic contintental breakfasts, some incredible prosciutto, cured meats and cheeses, and the occasionaly grilled piece of lamb and quaffed our thirst with Djuskie Lemon Beer. Our most incredible discoveries were a bread (found at the local bakery) which tasted like pork fried rice and an after dinner drink that tasted like big league chew (original flavor).
Overall, Milna is great spot. But if you head there, do it as a day trip, rent a car while you’re there or be a proud boat owner. It’s great, but next to impossible to get anywhere on Brac with no hassle.
PS – Croatia in July is as hot as the sun. Beware.